An Indian's Trail in Serbia - Part 2.

Hello and welcome to the next and very important phase of the tour after coming here - Sight-seeing and going about Belgrade and a few more places around like Topola, Vojvodina and Novisad.

It began the next day of our arrival. Sharp at 10 am we were greeted at the gate of our Hotel by our guide for the next three days - Dejan, who I felt is an excellent guide who actually cares about your needs right from food preferences to if you can walk up the miles and every minute thing, just like any other relative or may be an extended-family member would do. I had met this kind of an efficient guide during our tour in Goa, Chandigarh and Gujarat. However, after that, my experience from subsequent tours - which translated to be my opinion about guides were very derogatory. But after meeting Dejan - who seemed to be an exact carbon-copy of our really good guides from the above mentioned places and in some cases even better ( reason you will find below), my opinion changed and now, I recommend that if you want to get around Serbia - while knowing about the best places to find food, ice-creams, shops while knowing the 'whys' and 'hows' of the City better - do contact him on his email id -

djnssc@gmail.com

and I am sure he will get you a good plan.

Dad with Dejan on the right.

So, we began our tour. Upon learning that my mom wasn't comfortable with walking much as she was having some respiratory trouble that day, instead of saying that nothing could be done blah! blah! he rather took us via a shorter alternative route and from there we took a bus to reach our destination instead of walking a lot. Great isn't it. 

Going to Republic Square

Our first destination was - getting down at republic square from where we began our walking tour. Walking towards the monument of Prince Mihailo, we learnt a lot about the history of this place and why it was strategically important for army and transportation, from Dejan. It is well protected by law as many of the valuable landmarks of Belgrade history exist all around this place. Also, there are many construction references to the rulers of Serbia like Alexander Karađorđević.

Walking around - an usual Indian, heir to rich historical legacy might want to see something like hundreds of years old - but unfortunately, continuous war and destruction ensuing in the city doesn't provide one with that. But, what is worth observing is - whatever the Serbs have left with them - it is preserved with pride. Whatever they got after such long Battles is planned and maintained well. And above all, what I felt they wish to preserve and maintain is -  peaceful co-existence, harmony and safety of both citizens and tourists.

We gradually walked through pedestrian street talking about various aspects of the city and its day-to-day affairs. We got to know that 'avjar' - a red bell pepper based condiment is pronounced 'aivar'. And that J is silent. The 'Alcatra' which means tar in our language, is the name of a local sport team there. That rakija ( rakia ) has 45% alcohol content and its their national drink. And that, Serbs are really passionate about drinks. Walking down Pedestrian Street, one would find many stores here - esp. ice cream shops and, the fresh fruit creams are just alluring. However, it is better to check yourself as the prices in Pedestrian street are a bit higher compared to other parts of Belgrade. And the best ice-creams are found at shops near studentski and Skadarlija.

Pedestraian Street 

A bank - which looks like a grand house.

Next we took a left turn and reached the ? bar. Legend has it - that being just opposite to the Cathedral and being named after it initially, it became a reason of scorn for the Church authorities as the activities weren't really good enough to resonate with the Holy name. So, the owners were served notice to change the name. And that's when certain series of events led to the name remaining ?. To find out what happened - visit Belgrade yourself or contact Dejan.

Question Mark Bar

Just opposite to the ? bar on the street parallel to it, there is this Cathedral - designed by Hungarians to resemble Serbian style -  though it doesn't fully do it, as back then, there was a shortage or labourers well adapted to the Serbian way of construction.

Top of the Cathedral

Another one just opposite the above.

In the adjacent street - there is this house of Princess Ljubica's Residence, who happens to be the wife of Prince Mihailo. Well, Prince Mihailo later constructed himself another residence. And, there are many interesting theories behind his action.

Princess Ljubica's home.

Next, we headed towards a very important place - with both historical significance and present-day social relevance - the Kalemegdan Park, which houses the Kalemegdan Fortress or Belgrade fortress - a very strategic and important building for the army.

An art work installed at the entrance of the park which has a story behind it!

Entrance of Kalemegdan Fortress

Tower of Victor - a symbol of Victory

A conjunction of Sava and Danube river. Do you notice the change in colour of water.

Weapons in the open museum, inside Kalemegdan.

Here is a unique aspect though - the larger area of the park is called Smaller Kalemegdan while the smaller area of the park is called Bigger Kalemegdan. Why? Visit here and see for yourself. One can find many small shops selling knit-wear and crochet wear stuffs here. And - all locals aren't fluent in English. Dejan was really helpful in asking the prices. But, it just doesn't end there. Many travel agents will say that they( your guide) wouldn't help you with shopping ( which implies some sort of Bargaining with the prices ), but, Dejan would happily do that for you, and if the prices aren't that good, he would even advise you whether you should buy it then or not and where you can get these of better quality or at better rates, instead of keeping silent.

After touring through the entire fortress - which also has a military museum inside, housing various weapons used in the various wars; we walked towards Skadarlija - en route Studentski, where we saw a mosque which is a very important place of tourist interest. 

Skadarlija street

Skadarlija - cobbled streets - notice the restaurant name in the cycle.

It is here we stopped for lunch at OTIMO. Post lunch, we walked up to Skadarlija street. The stony cobbled path was fun to tread upon. Skadarlija has some of the best places to dine in the city and Indians are greeted here by many painters and artists of Belgrade - both to have a look ( and buy one or two maybe) & give feedback about their art and paintings and also to have a cross cultural discussions about Indian artforms and how has India developed in respect to the variety of artforms present in our country.
Lovely and intellectual people's place along with being a foodies paradise.

That was all for the first day. 

The second day, Dejan came in with his car and we headed Southwards from Belgrade, to a place named Topola. A very remarkable difference from the Indian terrain here is that - In India, the north has the Himalayas and is higher in altitude while the south is flat, however, in Serbia, the South is hilly while the north is flat. 
Well, when we began our climb up the Topola hill - we noticed that the roads have lots of make-shift shops set up on either side that day with police guarding the entire area. We got to know that it was a market day there, that day and so, we had to park our car much below the main region we were going to. Dejan requested the police then, (knowing my mom wouldn't be able to walk much) - who finally allowed us to park as close as feasibly possible. From there, we walked up. 
Upon entering through a big gate into a lush green forest area - he said it is the property of Karađorđe, a Serbian revolutionary, who was chosen as the leader of the First Serbian Uprising against the Ottoman Empire in 1804. The local St. George Church, which was inside the forest - a family church and a tourist attraction now, is the burial place of the Ducal and Royal Family of Serbia and Yugoslavia (the Karađorđevićes). 

We walked uphill through the forest, and a question propped in our minds - what if we sight some animals or deadly insects maybe. Upon asking Dejan he replied - these forests donot have any animals except squirrels and no deadly insects. All's there are these trees of oak and chestnuts, the timber from which was used in the construction of the church and homes of Karadordevics. Here we saw - the Church and the residence of Karadorjevics with all the significant letters shaping the history of the world and very valuable, rare and exquisite gifts of the royal family received from various dignitaries from across the globe. Also, I acquired another word - 'priatno'. We also learnt that here - Oplenec vintage festival is organised each year where vintage and rare collection of wine and local - traditional Serbian delights are out for people to enjoy. We have decided to go again during this festival and enjoy in the lap of pristine nature. What about you!

Walking through the forest

House of Karadordes

Next we headed to a wine factory - a family owned factory of the Karadordevics. With grapevines all around the factory housing equipment and separate red and white wine cellars is 3 floors down for the public and one or two floors deeper maybe which is not open for tourists and general people. Here, a Serbian speaking lady gave us the details of everything inside - while Dejan translated it to English for us. We learnt a lot - both about wine and how wine played a crucial role for the armies to sustain and friendship treaties signed. Here, one can find some specific wine drums in the cellar for white wine- which is so designed that if one taps from outside - it seems empty, but inside, there are chambers where wine is stored. These drums saved lives of several Serbian men out in the war in freezing cold.

These bottles are from 2nd world war

Dejan with Dad in front of Wine cellars

This is one of those strategic drums. Do tap it and hear the sound.

The front door of the wine factory.

Inside Karadorde's Bayat .. Notice the fox skin in the pic.

Karadorde's Bayat

Then, we drove to a country-side restaurant for lunch - Karadorde's Bayat. It had the look and feel of an English farmhouse. We had fresh Salad followed by chicken soup with bread followed by chicken fillets.  The quality and quantity was such that - we actually couldn't finish off everything ourselves. To our rescue - we had farm animals - the hens and a reddish - brown coated dog, whom we fed and they joined happily. It was a great experience in itself, as we seldom find such things in the hustle - bustle of the city life that we live in.
Here, it is worth mentioning - that Dejan was reached out by an agency here in India and he wasn't told anything about our food preferences, neither were we given any of the contact numbers so that we could contact and have a word regarding the same with him. After having set out everything ( the lunch menu and stuffs is usually pre-decided to have enough stock for the guests and meat in certain country side invariably means either beef or pork ) he still arranged for changes, upon learning that we do not have beef or pork. This was very special. Also, why I recommend Dejan as a guide is this - you do not have to ask him to do things for you - he will pay minute attention to whatever you say, understand and arrange accordingly. He will do everything for you to ensure - you have enjoyed yourselves and that - you are happy.

The third day, we went to Vojvodina ( pronounced voivodina) and Novi-Sad. First we went to a monastery in Vojvodina. The monastery had a huge compound for itself - and Dejan said that most monasteries were built in such huge compounds to make them self-sustaining in nature. Many fruits like - pears and chestnuts and apples grew all around. The monastery was built in Morova architectural style. Inside, we saw fresco paintings - something unique to Serbian churches. 

The next destination was another vineyard - and this time, it also included wine tasting. Many in Serbia are into wine business, and every family has its own special wine recipes - so unique and hard kept secret that its almost impossible to replicate. I being a non-drinker opted to just smell them. My Dad tasted all. And it was here - that I was coaxed so much by my parents and with Dejan saying that a bit of tasting won't harm actually and you won't have tipsy because these wine don't have spirit and all made from ( well you have to go there and find that out !! ) - I finally Tasted The First Wine of My Life named - KABERNE. My mom tasted just the Bermet.

The trio! Dejan, Dad and the vineyard owner

And after some initial unusual feeling ( which I don't know was actual or psychological ) I was fine enough by the time we reached Novi Sad from there. In Novi Sad, while walking towards Svetozar Miletic Square we saw streets with houses whose windows were propelled forwards. And it had many reasons for being thus - from being an extravagant show of wealth for the rich when glass was costly to being the place of gossip for the ladies to being a secret place for moms to keep an eye upon their daughters regarding who they talk to while on promenade below.

All around NoviSad

Here we saw the national theatre, Fruska Gora monastery, the first hotel to have Air-conditioners and water heaters and much more. Also, we saw preparations in full swing for the International Music festival. 
We had our lunch here before heading back to hotel.

Special Burger with no bread ( as we didn't feel like having any bread )

The next day, we got ourselves bus tickets to tour around Belgrade on our own. The hotel managers helped us with a few Bus numbers that could help us reach certain points to and from hotel. In Belgrade, you will not find any conductor inside the bus collecting ticket money. Dejan said that these bus tickets can be bought on any of kiosks everywhere around the city. You buy a plastic card and you buy credits. When you enter a bus just put the card next to the reader and it takes credit off. 

First, me and Dad walked up to Nikola Tesla Museum. The English tour was at 10 am that day. We bought tickets to get inside and an instructor displayed many of Nikola's experiments and his life story. Inside you can see his belongings and certificates along with the machines he developed. And do not forget to write your name in the white visitor's book as an immortal testimony to your visit. One ticket costs 500 RSD, so carry enough dinars.

Nikola Tesla Museum

Next, with mom accompanying this time we headed towards Sava temple - the oldest and largest orthodox church in the world. The entrance to it seems like a well crafted park with trees , pigeons squirrels and fountains. Many locals come here to spend there evening - chatting or skating or just for a walk with kids. 

Saint sava from outside and inside.

Then we went to Ada Ciganlija Lake. A very spectacular and large lake with many fun things to do inside - from taking a train tour through the entire lake ( costs 120 rsd per person ) to cycling or skating around to just relaxing on the side of the lake which seems like a beech. There are water sports to opt for as well. Also, if you are lucky ( like us ) you might be in for promotional offers where you get goodies like drinks and chocolates for free. Isn't that amazing. Also, you can stop at restaurants which are plenty inside.

 From strange feelings generated by people who discouraged our decision to go to Serbia to people criticising our choice and actually assuming we were out of money to afford a tour to London or Paris, to some exclaiming what Serbia would be like post wars, we heard it all before coming here. We had a mixed baggage of enthusiasm and apprehensions when we landed in Serbia. But, the Serbian people and the place had such a splendid impact on our hearts and mind that we feel, almost everyday, to come back again. We feel there are lots yet to be explored by us. And we indeed have many happy memories from our tour - it was really refreshing for the weary minds, inspiring for a traveller, rich for an explorer and passionate for a friendly human being.

Instead of regretting, we are happy having trusted our gut feelings and turning a deaf ear towards everyone who tried to stop us. Such unusual mix of Urban and country side is something worth ravishing in Serbia. And, it indeed is the perfect destination for a holiday and may be also for living - because indeed, the people are very helpful, warm and friendly. And I found Serbians to have a way out for any issue that crops up what-so-ever, motivated to remove any frown and bring out a smile in your face. Isn't that perfectly amazing aspect of a place.

I actually feel that I have fallen in love with the city and people of Belgrade and Serbia. And very soon, I plan to revisit the Balkan magician again. 

And I encourage everyone to do the same. 
To contact me and send in your reviews and feedback - you can drop an email here - 

aamiprabhasini@gmail.com

or follow me on twitter @PranWin.

To reach out on phone you can call me here - 918420747582.